It took a brave man to eat the first oyster. -  Mark Twain

       In 1929, Natalie Scott of New Orleans, collected recipes from the African-American cooks who worked for both her and her friends.  She published these in a small booklet she called ‘Mirations and Miracles of Mandy’.  These recipes reflect a fascinating blend of cultures, perfectly illustrating the gumbo of people that somehow came together in New Orleans.  This month we feature everyone’s favorite Louisiana delicacy – the oyster.

BROILED OYSTERS: There is little mystery to the broiling process. The oysters should be drained, dried, sprinkled with a little salt and red pepper, and dipped in melted butter. Then, broiled in butter in the broiler; served with chopped parsley and bits of lemon, on toast or with congenial adjuncts, they are too good to be thought of unless soon to be enjoyed!

EN BROCHETTE: Long skewers, silver or aluminum, rare in the average cuisine, are necessary. The oysters are prepared as for broiling, but are run on skewers, the oysters alternating with strips of bacon cut oyster length. Minced parsley end lemon and drawn butter are an essential final touch. The same charm of flavor without the complication of skewers is found in:

OYSTERS WRAPPED: The broiling preparation again,-�drying, salt, pepper, cayenne. Then each voluptuous oyster is encased in a strip of bacon held in place by a bit of toothpick. This is broiled, and served on toast with drawn butter and minced parsley over it, and bits of lemon about. Toothsome and so rich!
ON THE SHELLS: A favorite way of serving. Preliminary to the broiling process, the oysters may be sauté a minute or two in a saucepan with a tablespoon of butter, with chopped green onion top, minced parsley and herbs. Then they are put back in their shells, (which must, of course, be well cleaned) sprinkled with toasted bread crumbs, dabbed with butter, and then broiled. Slices of lemon are an essential touch to serving.

BAKED OYSTERS: Connoisseurs roll their eyes in the delight of this very simple dish. The oysters are left in their shells, well-cleaned, and put in a hot oven for 20 minutes. They open,�perhaps in astonishment at the unaccustomed heat. The shallow shells are removed and the oysters are left in the deeper ones, which are put on hot plates and served with dispatch. Minced parsley may be sprinkled over them.
       Each guest may be allowed to season his own, with butter, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Or the attentive host may provide a sauce of drawn butter, with chopped parsley, lemon juice, salt, pep per, and a bit of cayenne.

FRIED OYSTERS: The delight of the result is not to be measured by the simplicity of the process! The oysters are drained, sprinkled with salt, pepper, and a bit of cayenne, rolled in bread crumbs (or meal if preferred) and dropped into deep sizzling lard When they brown beautifully golden, they should be put on brown ‘butcher’s’ paper to absorb the grease. They demand sliced lemon, quartered pickles, and parsley for garnishing. There is a cult that solemnly demands a complication of this process, as follows:
one egg is beaten up in a ‘ pint of milk, and the oysters are dipped in this prior to the bread crumb stage, acquiring perhaps a bit more delicacy of flavor to the sensitive palate.

OYSTERS ST. PIERRE
3 doz. oysters
1 tablespoon of flour
1 tablespoon of butter
1 cup of milk
2 eggs (yolks)
½ onion, bit of chopped onion top, parsley, salt, pepper, cayenne
       Boil the oysters in their juice till they grow puffy. Then take them out and chop them up. Work the flour and butter together. Put the milk in a double boiler and as it comes to a boil, stir in the flour and butter, with restraint. Next come the yolks of the eggs, well beaten; then the seasoning, parsley, herbs; also chopped mushrooms, if your generosity goes so far; green peppers as well delight many tastes. Then the oysters. This is all stirred up together ready for baking.
       Deep shells are effective for this, but the taste is just as delicious in ramekins, or even in a usual baking dish. Cracker or bread crumbs are sprinkled over the top, dabs of butter administered. 5 minutes baking brings out a delicious finished product.

SPANISH OYSTERS
3 doz. oysters
1 tablespoon of butter
2 tablespoons of flour
1 can of tomatoes
Onion, parsley, green onion top, pickle, sweet pepper, celery, salt, pepper, cayenne, Worcestershire sauce
       Fry the chopped onion in the butter, and beware of the treacherous tendency to burn! Add the flour and let it brown; then season, and add the chopped herbs, onion, grated celery, and sliced pickle. Mushrooms, if you will. Then the oysters. A touch of Worcestershire at the last minute is a happy one.

OYSTERS ROCKERFELLER
2 doz. oysters
Bacon
Bread crumbs
Spinach
1/2 lb. of butter
Parsley, green onion top, lemon, salt, pepper, cayenne
       Wash fresh oysters and clean them thoroughly. Put each oyster on its shell. Chop up the shallot tops, and parsley, and mix them well with the butter, adding salt, pepper, and cayenne.
       Put some of this mixture on top of each oyster. Then bits of minced bacon, then a little cooked spinach. Over this, sprinkle sparingly bread crumbs, browned and buttered.
Run the oysters in a hot oven and let them stay till they begin to swell a little,�about five minutes.
       In New Orleans restaurants, the shells are set in a shallow pan which has ice cream salt in it, to preserve the heat; and the oysters are served in it, about 3/4 dozen to each pan. Very crusty bread is recommended to go with it.
      
OYSTERS GRANDE DAME
4 doz. medium oysters
4 tablespoons of olive oil
2 tablespoons of butter
1 lemon
Parsley, shallots, 1 clove of garlic, salt, pepper, tabasco
1 wine-glass of white wine (cooking wine)
       Put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a flat baking dish, and arrange the oysters in it neatly. Pour 2 more tablespoons of oil over them. Chop the herbs, shallots, parsley, garlic, very well. There should be at least 4 tablespoons of ground shallots and as much parsley. Sift flour over it all, and put half a dozen goodly lumps of butter about the top. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, then the Worcestershire, salt, pepper, and about a half of the oyster liquor. Add the white wine.
       Bake in a hot oven about 15 or 20 minutes. Then run the dish under the flame to brown.
       Good crusty French bread should ac company this dish,–not crackers, nor white bread.

ESCALLOP OYSTERS
2 doz. oysters
1 cup of oyster liquor
3/4 cup of milk
1 cup of cracker crumbs
1 cup of bread crumbs
4 tablespoons of butter
Salt, pepper, cayenne
       This is a Yankee method, I have heard; but it has its followers here.
       The butter is melted and mixed with the bread and cracker crumbs. A layer of this is placed in the bottom of the baking dish; then a layer of oysters, sprinkled with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Then a layer of crumbs, with little dots of butter here and there; another layer of oysters, with seasoning, and the final layer of crumbs, with, on each layer, scattered dabs of butter here and there, then another layer of oysters, with seasoning, and the final layer of crumbs, with, on each layer, scattered dabs of butter.